If your maker has copper or brass insides, the water coming out of the group head might come with a slight green tint to it. If you have a single-serve machine, using a quart of the solution will work as well. A friend of mine descales her Keurig with this citric acid mixture for a couple of years now and has no complaints whatsoever.
Especially if you know the tap water you use is hard. Perform preventative decalcifying. This is why I decided to share what I know and how I make descaling solutions for my coffee machine. It recommends using Urnex Dezcal on its Moccamaster machines. However, rather than a chance to make more money, the company recommends the descaler to keep its customers satisfied by ensuring its products have longevity and better coffee taste.
The internet is awash with tutorials demonstrating how to descale coffee machines with vinegar. However, just because the practice is commonplace does not make it a good idea. Technically, vinegar is acetic acid. However, it is not as effective, and it can damage certain metals and rubber seals. Not only that, but vinegar leaves a strong smell and residual taste.
However, in an espresso machine, the remaining scale, coffee residue and coffee oils absorb that vinegar flavor. Meanwhile, copper bottles absorb the odor. The flavor and odor of vinegar can be hard to shift. Normally, this type of product comes in liquid or crystalline form. The key ingredient is usually sulfamic acid , an organic acid that is used for all kinds of interesting things.
Sulfamic acid is an excellent descaling agent, and it is much safer for various types of metals. When strong enough, it will even remove rust try it! Sulfamic acid is, in fact, my acid of choice for most applications. When it comes to sulfamic acid, the crystalline white powder kind that comes in a packet is the best.
The simple reason for this is that what you are getting is basically sulfamic acid and nothing else. You dissolve the crystals in water, and voila! You have a glorious descaling solution. There are also liquid descalers that contain sulfamic acid, but alas, they also contain other cleaning agents and stabilizers in order to keep the sulfamic acid in a liquidy state. Go for the crystalline stuff! Now, sometimes, you have an appliance like a water distiller.
Water distillers are fabulous contraptions for generating super-pure drinking water. Contrary to popular belief, drinking distilled water is NOT bad for you.
I am in perfect health. The reasons for why distilled water is actually good for you are beyond the scope of this post, but you can find a bunch of info on the subject by doing a simple web search. In any case, water distillers for the home usually work by heating water with an electric element inside a sealed metal container. The water boils, the steam rises into a spiraling tube, a fan cools the tube, the pure water condenses, and it trickles down into the water reservoir.
As you can imagine, what is left in the boiling chamber is a whole lot of nasty, crusty, rock-hard mineral deposits jam-packed with whatever other evil crapola is in your tap water. Cleaning those deposits is not easy, since it is literally rock hard.
This is where sulfamic acid comes in. It has to be VERY highly concentrated. In other words, dump in lots of packets of the white crystals! In that case, go out and get yourself some hydrochloric acid , commonly known as muriatic acid. Hydrochloric acid will eagerly eat through things like certain rubber seals, so be careful.
It also has a bad habit of eating away at certain metals, so it must be used with caution. On the plus side, this is one acid that does not mess around with even the hardest mineral deposits. Whatever acid you use, you will probably have to drain the acid, flush with water, and possibly use a metal utensil to poke and prod at any remaining deposits. They should just fall right off your appliance at that point. Flush with more water, and then place the gizmo back in service.
Of course, you can also use a container with acid in it to clean off calcified components, pipes or fittings, etc. But whatever acid you use, be careful!!! I am quite impressed with your findings it is really very informative and you have given a birds eye view of acids use in very few lines it will definitely help the mankind. Keep it up keep sharing. I love this info. I use muriatic acid to descale my commercial espresso machines.
I buy it at home depot. I further dilute this to about 4 parts water to 1 part acid. In a separate gallon bucket, I just fill with water and dump in a large box of baking soda and mix it up. After about minutes of soaking the parts with scale in the acid, I dip them into the baking soda base bucket. The baking soda neutralizes the acid and does an awesome job of removing the scale. Then I rinse with lots of water.
I use wire coat hangers to attach to the parts to keep my hands away. Safety goggles are a must!!! When you dip the parts in to the base bucket, a chemical reaction occurs, and you get some violent splashing of the neutralizer and acid.
I will say, it is fun! Then, you must consider solids. HCl, the least expensive pure acid available, is very good at removing PO 4 -2 , CO 3 -2 and biological slimes. HCl, when properly inhibited, is effective for cleaning carbon steel, cast iron, admiralty brass, bronze, copper-nickel alloys and Monel.
The degree of descaling depends upon inhibitor concentration, average acid concentration, cleaning time, temperature and velocity. Ideally, keep circulating times to 30 minutes or less at pickle bath temperatures. A chelating agent, such as citric acid for food-grade applications or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid EDTA for other operations, could help capture the scale and keep it in solution. Use of a corrosion inhibitor is key to protecting steel.
Even with inhibitor, pitting and etching may occur. Inhibitors work through a number of chemical mechanisms such as polymerization, weak Van der Waals bonding and stronger chemisorption bonds — the latter are most effective.
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